Eating In Translation

Kuih Cafe

Dimpled "abacus seeds," named for their resemblance to the counters on the calculating tool, connoted prosperity for the Year of the Rat at this new Malaysian snack shop. Laboriously prepared from boiled yam paste (and, typically, tapioca flour), they mingled with with wood ear and black mushrooms, a little squid, dried shrimp, minced pork, chile pepper, and scallion.

Also shown, from down the block: a freehand spray mural, by BKFoxx for East Village Walls, "for those who find beauty in things discarded."

Kuih Cafe
46 Eldridge St. (Canal-Hester Sts.), Manhattan
646-799-9340
www.Facebook.com/KuihCafe

Cut and Run: Astoria's Pizza Slice Joints

Sold by the slice, pizza is emblematic of New York City. It's an inexpensive antidote to hunger pangs that can be ordered quickly, and eaten quickly, even on the go. Think of Tony Manero, the John Travolta character in Saturday Night Fever, double-decking a pair of slices while strutting through Bay Ridge, Brooklyn.

At a less bouncy pace, we recently visited Astoria, Queens, in search of good slices. Read more on Culinary Backstreets.

Al Raouche

Winding down our long walk before meeting friends for a group lunch, we reckoned we had room for just one of the two weekend-only hot mezze. Make that one-plus: The side plate of pickles and olives was essential to cutting the richness of lamb brain dressed with olive oil, garlic, and lemon. Also shown: condiments. Untouched by us, but I liked the way they caught the light.

Al Raouche
169 Crooks Ave. (at Getty Ave.), Paterson, New Jersey
973-279-5131
www.Facebook.com/AlRaoucheRestaurant
Closed Tuesday

Ameer Bakery

In late morning, still warm from the oven: a Palestinian pie with the salty allure of organic Nabulsi cheese (comped by the owner). This was, in fact, a two-cheese pie; the second was mozzarella.

Ameer Bakery
243 Buffalo Ave. (Columbia-Lehigh Aves.), Paterson, New Jersey
973-998-6444
www.Facebook.com/Ameer-Bakery-Patterson-NJ-105548687556664
Closed Tuesday

Factory Tamal

What tropical tree was this? Several years ago I saw this mural at Factory Tamal's former location on Essex St.. Like most security-shutter artwork, it was visible only when the business was closed and no one was around to ask.

The mural itself hasn't survived, but after coming across it again in my photo archives, I stopped by to inquire at the shop's current location, around the block. The artwork, as it happens, predated Factory Tamal; painted in 2014 by Jessica Blowers for the 100 Gates Project, it honored the neighboring Cafe Grumpy. Although the trunk and fruits were rendered extra-robusto, this was a coffee tree.

It's no mystery, to be sure, that the shop makes excellent tamales. Below is a breakfasttime mole poblano with chicken.

Factory Tamal
34 Ludlow St. (Grand-Hester Sts.), Manhattan
917-691-5524
www.FactoryTamal.com

San Pedro Deli

The taco placero, or "market taco," might take its name from its natural habitat, "the markets and plazas of Southern Mexican cities," especially in the state of Puebla. Or, perhaps, from the sourcing, since it is often "assembled piecemeal from ingredients found around the market." The coarse, oversized tortilla and the underlayer of rice are typical. Hardboiled egg is also common, but here it would distract from the taquero's efforts with freshly grilled chile pepper, onion, and lengua, or tongue.

Suggested pairing: atole de granillo, a hot beverage prepared from cooked, dried, roughly ground kernels of corn. At San Pedro it's sweet, but not too sweet.

San Pedro Deli
780 Fourth Ave. (26th-27th Sts.), Greenwood Heights, Brooklyn
347-725-4925

New York-area food events, February 13-20

Love at First Bite: New York Asian Film Festival Winter Showcase
Friday through Sunday, February 14-16, various times
SVA Theatre, 333 West 23rd St. (Eighth-Ninth Aves.), Manhattan
www.GoElevent.com/NYAFF/e/List
See website for ticket details, including food tastings after evening screenings

Valentine's Day Foodie Festival
Friday, February 14, 6:30-midnight
Harborside Atrium, 210 Hudson St., Jersey City
www.Eventbrite.com/e/valentines-day-foodie-festival-tickets-88163353965
Tickets: $10 and up; ages 21 and over only

Vegan Shop-Up
Saturday, February 15, noon-5:00; repeats monthly
Pine Box Rock Shop, 12 Grattan St. (Bogart St.-Morgan Ave.), Bushwick, Brooklyn
www.VeganShopUp.wordpress.com/2020/02/11/10th-annual-vegan-valentines-shop-up-february-15th
Free admission; attendees under age 21 must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian

Kosher Food and Wine Experience
Monday, February 17, 6:30-9:30
Chelsea Piers, Pier 60 (at West 22nd St.), Manhattan
www.TheKFWE.com/tickets-nyc
Tickets: general admission, $125

Eat Joy: Stories & Comfort Food from Celebrated Writers
Monday, February 17, 7:30-9:00ish
Leonard Nimoy Thalia, Symphony Space, 2537 Broadway (at 95th St.), Manhattan
www.SymphonySpace.org/events/eat-joy
Tickets: general admission, $21

How and Why Americans Should Adopt Insect Protein
Tuesday, February 18, 7:00-8:30
American Museum of Natural History, Linder Theater, entrance on West 77th St. between Columbus Ave. and Central Park West, Manhattan
www.NYEntSoc.org/monthly-meetings
Free admission

Angel Indian Restaurant

Meat-free, gleefully: lasuni gobi ("garlic cauliflower"), uttapham, matar paneer, and dum biryani, from a chef formerly of Adda. Also shown: dahi batata puri, pakoda kale, bhindi masala, and the often-underappreciated dal makhni.

Angel Indian Restaurant
7414 37th Rd. (74th-75th Sts.), Jackson Heights, Queens
347-848-0097
www.Facebook.com/AngelIndianNewYork

Mi Dulce México

Machaca con huevo, shredded dried beef scrambled with egg, is a breakfast standard in the northwestern Mexican state of Sinaloa. I never did try it at the short-lived Elmhurst restaurant Sinaloense, so I'm glad the chef has found a new home in the kitchen of a rebranded Dominican bakery. (Ownership is unchanged, as many bizcochos and at least one small bandera will testify.)

Alongside the machaca is an unbilled and unassuming accompaniment, frijoles puercos, beans that have been stewed in lard and imbued with chorizo, vinegared chiles, and cheese. (A representative photo that would convey this richness is near-impossible.) At Sinaloense the beans were also brightened by green olives, but the chef found that they're not to everyone's taste, according to the counterwoman. Even so, she observed, if spread on bread these beans alone could make a meal.

H/T Taco Literacy and Eat the World NYC

Mi Dulce México
3558 97th St., Corona, Queens
718-533-9999
www.Facebook.com/Mi-Dulce-México-104029627821668

Tonii's Fresh Rice Noodle

Chewy, belly-filling cheong fun — Cantonese rice noodle rolls — crowd the menu at this spin-off from Kam Hing Coffee Shop down the block. Shown: cheong fun filled with crab meat (that is, surimi) and egg; roast duck; and pork, chicken, and dry shrimp (the house "special"). At bottom: a tabletop condiment caddy, enabling even more variety.

H/T Kim, @garsleat

Tonii's Fresh Rice Noodle
85 Bayard St. (Mulberry-Mott Sts.), Manhattan