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Dumpling House

After a half-dozen visits I've never tried the dumplings at this Northern Chinese takeout favorite, thanks to my repeat orders of the sesame beef pancake ($1.50; the priciest item on the menu is $3). It's a wedge of sesame-studded griddle-fried bread, thicker than paratha, sliced endwise and filled with (anise-flavored?) beef, carrots, and cilantro topped with a mild hot sauce. A review posted inside Dumpling House, by the Village Voice's Robert Sietsema, suggests that "one makes a meal"; that's true only for small appetites.

I did finally pick up on Sietsema's suggestion to try the chive and egg pancake ($1). In this case, the pancake is a half-moon not unlike a sealed pita, lightly lined with glass vermicelli, then stuffed with chives flecked with egg. They don't seem to make many of these; mine took 15 minutes while dumpling customers came and went. It's a little oily, though the wrapper held up till the last bite.

Dumpling House
118A Eldridge St. (Grand-Broome Sts.)


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